Up for sale is a nearly complete S52 engine that was pulled out of a rear-ended 99 M3 vert from a junkyard. I don’t know the mileage on the engine since the dash was taken out, but the VIN number is WBSBK9337XEC43343 so if you were so inclined, could probably CarFax it to get a rough estimate of the mileage. Regardless almost every moving part has been replaced or refurbished.
It was my goal to rebuild this engine from the ground up no expense spared to make it as strong and reliable and bullet proof to take nearly anything I wanted to throw at it. My original goal was to get 350-400hp reliably either by supercharger or nitrous. I started with the complete engine and tore it down piece-by-piece ensuring to label all the parts together with corresponding hardware and took dozens of pictures.
Next I took it to a very reputable machine shop up in Portland Oregon called Bearing Service. They took the block, crank, and head and cleaned and magnafluxed all the parts, skimmed the surfaces of the head and block for a nice clean surface (it was not warped). I talked over my build plans with their main machinist, Brian, and he recommended Arias forged pistons which he had custom built for this particular block at stock compression, bored out the block to spec. I wanted 1mm oversized valves so he ensured the pistons had the proper relief cuts recessed into the tops. Since I mentioned I wanted to add nitrous he recommended upgraded piston rings from Hastings, which he properly gapped and fitted for this build.
Through my research on the forced induction side of the house it seemed the stock rods were showing positive strength up to about 550hp and since I wasn’t planning on going that high I kept the stock rods. New OE main bearings and rod bearings were fitted and ARP hardware installed for main caps and rod caps and the whole thing balanced.
The crank, pistons, rods, hardware, oil squirters, freeze plugs, ect on the short block were assembled by my machine shop and that was the extent of their work
Like I mentioned before I wanted to go with 1mm oversized valves so he had a custom set made for the head using 1-piece stainless valves for both intake and exhaust. The rest of the valve train was installed with all new guides and Supertech valve springs and titanium keepers.
My portion of the build included installing a new (rebuilt) oil pump from Achilles Motorsport with the reinforced oil pump nut, reinforced oil pick up tube, and had their oil pan baffle kit welded into the oil pain. I also installed a brand new oil pump chain and lower timing chain with the stronger race version from an OE supplier. Next was the timing chain cover and brand new timing chain guides and front and rear main seals basically buttoning up the entire bottom end and that’s about where I’ve stopped.
Since then about 8 months have gone by and I’ve moved cross-country to South Florida for work and due to a realization of financial obligations, I no longer wish to put any more money into this engine. The engine has sat on its stand covered, but during the move the bag tore and it got dusty so honestly as much money is invested in this I would probably take it all back apart, have it re-cleaned and inspected and put back together for peace of mind. I have followed the Bentley Manual to the T as well as aftermarket manufacture recommendations where applicable and torque to spec using a quality snap on torque wrench during my install.
The engine is nearly complete. The one thing, as a buyer, you will have to provide are cams and lifters since I sold the original ones to help pay for this build. I was planning on going with Schrick sport cams since they are the most common and easiest to tune so I would recommend those. Anything more aggressive and you will need to double check clearances, but with the large reliefs cut in the pistons you should still be able to run Vanos with whatever cam you choose.
I’m scared to add up all the receipts but I know I have put over $8000 into this engine and without adding any type of forced induction I’m really looking at maybe a bit over stock horsepower. Realizing this is what’s made me pause and rethink my financial obligations haha. I understand it’s not fully put together and all of my aftermarket parts don’t add too much value if it’s incomplete. That’s the downside of car ownership and it’s my curse to bear. With that in mind I’m only going to ask for $6000 for everything. It’s really a great deal for anyone who is knowledgeable in engine building and willing to take over my project.
Other parts to include not installed:
Cometic head gasket(never installed)
Upper race timing chain
All the timing parts, labled and organized
All hardware
All vanos parts
Water pump with metal impeller/aluminum thermostat cover
Wire harness (no ECU)
Intake manifold with throttle and all emissions parts
Clutch and flywheel
Stock exhaust headers
Oil filter assembly
Fuel rails
Coil packs
Arp head bolts
Valve cover/plastic engine covers
New crankshaft bolt
Misc gaskets
Parts needed to complete:
Schrick cams
OE lifters
Misc nuts, bolts, gaskets
Patience
Bigger budget than me
I would prefer local sale since I have never shipped anything this large before and quite frankly I don’t know how but we could work that out if need be. Also I don’t have a truck anymore so transporting could be troublesome for me. I would like to keep everything together, I don’t want to part anything out or separate the head from the block. If no one wants the whole set up after awhile I will sell the head from the block. I am posting this first on the forums so for now if it’s still on here, it’s still for sale. I am in town for the next 3 weeks and will answer any questions I can and provide pictures, documents, receipts, upon request. This engine has a lot of potential. My plan was to put it into my M-coupe but it’d be great for an E30 swap or whatever you have your project plans set on.
![]()
http://ift.tt/1tRTJsr">
http://ift.tt/1tRTLRj
http://ift.tt/1w4RGvv
http://ift.tt/1w4REUu
http://ift.tt/1w4RGvz
http://ift.tt/1w4RFaI
http://ift.tt/1tRTM7z
http://ift.tt/1tRTJsz
http://ift.tt/1tRTM7B
http://ift.tt/1tRTJsF
http://ift.tt/1tRTJsH
It was my goal to rebuild this engine from the ground up no expense spared to make it as strong and reliable and bullet proof to take nearly anything I wanted to throw at it. My original goal was to get 350-400hp reliably either by supercharger or nitrous. I started with the complete engine and tore it down piece-by-piece ensuring to label all the parts together with corresponding hardware and took dozens of pictures.
Next I took it to a very reputable machine shop up in Portland Oregon called Bearing Service. They took the block, crank, and head and cleaned and magnafluxed all the parts, skimmed the surfaces of the head and block for a nice clean surface (it was not warped). I talked over my build plans with their main machinist, Brian, and he recommended Arias forged pistons which he had custom built for this particular block at stock compression, bored out the block to spec. I wanted 1mm oversized valves so he ensured the pistons had the proper relief cuts recessed into the tops. Since I mentioned I wanted to add nitrous he recommended upgraded piston rings from Hastings, which he properly gapped and fitted for this build.
Through my research on the forced induction side of the house it seemed the stock rods were showing positive strength up to about 550hp and since I wasn’t planning on going that high I kept the stock rods. New OE main bearings and rod bearings were fitted and ARP hardware installed for main caps and rod caps and the whole thing balanced.
The crank, pistons, rods, hardware, oil squirters, freeze plugs, ect on the short block were assembled by my machine shop and that was the extent of their work
Like I mentioned before I wanted to go with 1mm oversized valves so he had a custom set made for the head using 1-piece stainless valves for both intake and exhaust. The rest of the valve train was installed with all new guides and Supertech valve springs and titanium keepers.
My portion of the build included installing a new (rebuilt) oil pump from Achilles Motorsport with the reinforced oil pump nut, reinforced oil pick up tube, and had their oil pan baffle kit welded into the oil pain. I also installed a brand new oil pump chain and lower timing chain with the stronger race version from an OE supplier. Next was the timing chain cover and brand new timing chain guides and front and rear main seals basically buttoning up the entire bottom end and that’s about where I’ve stopped.
Since then about 8 months have gone by and I’ve moved cross-country to South Florida for work and due to a realization of financial obligations, I no longer wish to put any more money into this engine. The engine has sat on its stand covered, but during the move the bag tore and it got dusty so honestly as much money is invested in this I would probably take it all back apart, have it re-cleaned and inspected and put back together for peace of mind. I have followed the Bentley Manual to the T as well as aftermarket manufacture recommendations where applicable and torque to spec using a quality snap on torque wrench during my install.
The engine is nearly complete. The one thing, as a buyer, you will have to provide are cams and lifters since I sold the original ones to help pay for this build. I was planning on going with Schrick sport cams since they are the most common and easiest to tune so I would recommend those. Anything more aggressive and you will need to double check clearances, but with the large reliefs cut in the pistons you should still be able to run Vanos with whatever cam you choose.
I’m scared to add up all the receipts but I know I have put over $8000 into this engine and without adding any type of forced induction I’m really looking at maybe a bit over stock horsepower. Realizing this is what’s made me pause and rethink my financial obligations haha. I understand it’s not fully put together and all of my aftermarket parts don’t add too much value if it’s incomplete. That’s the downside of car ownership and it’s my curse to bear. With that in mind I’m only going to ask for $6000 for everything. It’s really a great deal for anyone who is knowledgeable in engine building and willing to take over my project.
Other parts to include not installed:
Cometic head gasket(never installed)
Upper race timing chain
All the timing parts, labled and organized
All hardware
All vanos parts
Water pump with metal impeller/aluminum thermostat cover
Wire harness (no ECU)
Intake manifold with throttle and all emissions parts
Clutch and flywheel
Stock exhaust headers
Oil filter assembly
Fuel rails
Coil packs
Arp head bolts
Valve cover/plastic engine covers
New crankshaft bolt
Misc gaskets
Parts needed to complete:
Schrick cams
OE lifters
Misc nuts, bolts, gaskets
Patience
Bigger budget than me
I would prefer local sale since I have never shipped anything this large before and quite frankly I don’t know how but we could work that out if need be. Also I don’t have a truck anymore so transporting could be troublesome for me. I would like to keep everything together, I don’t want to part anything out or separate the head from the block. If no one wants the whole set up after awhile I will sell the head from the block. I am posting this first on the forums so for now if it’s still on here, it’s still for sale. I am in town for the next 3 weeks and will answer any questions I can and provide pictures, documents, receipts, upon request. This engine has a lot of potential. My plan was to put it into my M-coupe but it’d be great for an E30 swap or whatever you have your project plans set on.
http://ift.tt/1tRTLRj
http://ift.tt/1w4RGvv
http://ift.tt/1w4REUu
http://ift.tt/1w4RGvz
http://ift.tt/1w4RFaI
http://ift.tt/1tRTM7z
http://ift.tt/1tRTJsz
http://ift.tt/1tRTM7B
http://ift.tt/1tRTJsF
http://ift.tt/1tRTJsH
E36 S52 Engine Build
Aucun commentaire:
Enregistrer un commentaire