Temp n gas gauge inop at same time

How if at all are thses two Gauges interconnected? Both went inop at exact same start up.

have had rare issues with gas gauge but usually a restart would correct itself. Now both went caput and are no longer functioning after several days now.

Has new fuel pump w/sender unit last year so I know it's working.

TIA

Temp n gas gauge inop at same time

Hella Euro Headlamps + all OEM wires, connectors, plugs

I picked up set four years ago from Schmiedmann in Denmark and all the OEM plugs, wires, connectors on Shogun's list via either getbmwparts.com or via BMW Germany.



I'll post photos soon. Everything new in bags and boxes. Never installed.



Selling $600.



Pics soon.



Perfect for those years of E34 in North America that used reflector headlamps (I think 90-92) and maybe a few months into either preceding and/or following year.

Hella Euro Headlamps + all OEM wires, connectors, plugs

Proclip/Brodit iPhone4 swivel mount

Passing this on. Holds an iPhone 4 with a thin case (adjustable width), not sure about an otter box type case though. Accepts a charger cable in the bottom. It replaces the radio surround trim using the stock screw holes so no permanent damage.

$30 (gifted via PayPal), shipped CONUS.

Proclip/Brodit iPhone4 swivel mount

Subtle differences between a 91/92 850i and a very late (96/97) M73 850Cis

While working on my 1997 850Ci headlight loom today I went and pulled a spare loom off of a 1992 850i parts car and was very surprised to see that the wiring on the late E31s was much lighter gauge with a hard plastic insulation that is deteriorating/cracking on both of my later cars. The wiring looms are on the fenders no where near the engine and are not exposed to extreme engine heat. Why are they deteriorating so badly???



The loom off the 92 850i parts car looks original and it has thicker wires with more rubber like insulation...



What was also unusual is I have several old German cars (356 +911 Porsches, 280SL MB) from the mid 1950s to the 1960s and unlike English cars the German wiring was always considered absolutely bullet proof even when almost 70 years old!



Not so much with the E31s?...



Maybe the new hard wiring is BMW planned obsolescence? When your car catches fire and burns to the ground you will need a new BMW.



I also noticed the tool kits were different in the later E31 it is missing the large 17/19mm wrench by design...

Subtle differences between a 91/92 850i and a very late (96/97) M73 850Cis

E30 1993 E30 325i Convertible. Crack Free Dash. 5 Speed

1993 E30 BMW 325i Vert

5 Speed Manual

Blue leather interior / White (alpine) exterior

Blue top

150,000 Miles

Car is in great shape and runs really well. Just had the oil changed. Crack Free Dash. Paint is in good shape, has a few minor blemishes but was recently washed and waxed.



I am the 2nd owner of this car, I purchased it in FL in 2013. I have tried to maintain it but the car is getting older and probably could use a garage to be stored in. It's fun to drive and it a great example of a BMW.



Replacements in past few years: Steering rack, 15'' basketweave wheels/tires, Euro Smiley head lights, Timing Belt (134K). Crack Free Dash.



Known issues - Top is beginning to leak in heavy rain. Tires are fairly worn and probably need to be replaced in the next 5K miles. Interior is beginning to wear, common split in rear seat. Also cracking in front seats and rear seat. Tachometer and economy gauge do not work (this is most likely due to a dead battery in SI Board). Slight noise from throw-out bearing, brake light on dash flickers.



Asking $5,250 OBO.

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E30 1993 E30 325i Convertible. Crack Free Dash. 5 Speed

Steering wheel play after installation, what did I screw up?

Long story short, I swapped my OEM steering wheel on my own and now have up-down play when I pull/push on the steering wheel. Any idea how I can fix that, or If I need to replace the entire steering column at the BMW shop?



Here's some additional details from the installation:



1. I did not lower the steering column before pulling or when re-installing the wheel like the service manual recommends

2. Hammered the torque wrench a bit trying to get the center bolt loose - ended up using a longer breaker bar to remove it

3. Did not tighten the bolt per BMW spec as I didn't have a digital torque wrench, I just tightened it as hard as I could (also not recommend in the manual)

4. I did align the steering column marking with the steering wheel so the wheels are centered correctly



I wish I had the manual before performing this procedure. Obviously I screwed something up... steering is fine though but I find the slack extremely annoying for an "OCD" person like me.



Was thinking to replace the hex bolt and repeat the procedure, this time by lowering the column during the installation/removal and also torquing the bolt to 63 nm.



The manual also mentions the following two lines which I think are redundant unless I miss something:

Quote:

---

• Align steering wheel and column match marks.

• Align steering wheel to alignment pins located on steering column

switch block.

---

What do you guys think?

Steering wheel play after installation, what did I screw up?

Change exhaust housing from divided to undivided?

Can I change the housing on a divided turbo, to a undivided?

Or is there any diffrence on the turbine Wheel?



Precision 6266 btw.

Change exhaust housing from divided to undivided?