Temp n gas gauge inop at same time

How if at all are thses two Gauges interconnected? Both went inop at exact same start up.

have had rare issues with gas gauge but usually a restart would correct itself. Now both went caput and are no longer functioning after several days now.

Has new fuel pump w/sender unit last year so I know it's working.

TIA

Temp n gas gauge inop at same time

Hella Euro Headlamps + all OEM wires, connectors, plugs

I picked up set four years ago from Schmiedmann in Denmark and all the OEM plugs, wires, connectors on Shogun's list via either getbmwparts.com or via BMW Germany.



I'll post photos soon. Everything new in bags and boxes. Never installed.



Selling $600.



Pics soon.



Perfect for those years of E34 in North America that used reflector headlamps (I think 90-92) and maybe a few months into either preceding and/or following year.

Hella Euro Headlamps + all OEM wires, connectors, plugs

Proclip/Brodit iPhone4 swivel mount

Passing this on. Holds an iPhone 4 with a thin case (adjustable width), not sure about an otter box type case though. Accepts a charger cable in the bottom. It replaces the radio surround trim using the stock screw holes so no permanent damage.

$30 (gifted via PayPal), shipped CONUS.

Proclip/Brodit iPhone4 swivel mount

Subtle differences between a 91/92 850i and a very late (96/97) M73 850Cis

While working on my 1997 850Ci headlight loom today I went and pulled a spare loom off of a 1992 850i parts car and was very surprised to see that the wiring on the late E31s was much lighter gauge with a hard plastic insulation that is deteriorating/cracking on both of my later cars. The wiring looms are on the fenders no where near the engine and are not exposed to extreme engine heat. Why are they deteriorating so badly???



The loom off the 92 850i parts car looks original and it has thicker wires with more rubber like insulation...



What was also unusual is I have several old German cars (356 +911 Porsches, 280SL MB) from the mid 1950s to the 1960s and unlike English cars the German wiring was always considered absolutely bullet proof even when almost 70 years old!



Not so much with the E31s?...



Maybe the new hard wiring is BMW planned obsolescence? When your car catches fire and burns to the ground you will need a new BMW.



I also noticed the tool kits were different in the later E31 it is missing the large 17/19mm wrench by design...

Subtle differences between a 91/92 850i and a very late (96/97) M73 850Cis

E30 1993 E30 325i Convertible. Crack Free Dash. 5 Speed

1993 E30 BMW 325i Vert

5 Speed Manual

Blue leather interior / White (alpine) exterior

Blue top

150,000 Miles

Car is in great shape and runs really well. Just had the oil changed. Crack Free Dash. Paint is in good shape, has a few minor blemishes but was recently washed and waxed.



I am the 2nd owner of this car, I purchased it in FL in 2013. I have tried to maintain it but the car is getting older and probably could use a garage to be stored in. It's fun to drive and it a great example of a BMW.



Replacements in past few years: Steering rack, 15'' basketweave wheels/tires, Euro Smiley head lights, Timing Belt (134K). Crack Free Dash.



Known issues - Top is beginning to leak in heavy rain. Tires are fairly worn and probably need to be replaced in the next 5K miles. Interior is beginning to wear, common split in rear seat. Also cracking in front seats and rear seat. Tachometer and economy gauge do not work (this is most likely due to a dead battery in SI Board). Slight noise from throw-out bearing, brake light on dash flickers.



Asking $5,250 OBO.

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E30 1993 E30 325i Convertible. Crack Free Dash. 5 Speed

Steering wheel play after installation, what did I screw up?

Long story short, I swapped my OEM steering wheel on my own and now have up-down play when I pull/push on the steering wheel. Any idea how I can fix that, or If I need to replace the entire steering column at the BMW shop?



Here's some additional details from the installation:



1. I did not lower the steering column before pulling or when re-installing the wheel like the service manual recommends

2. Hammered the torque wrench a bit trying to get the center bolt loose - ended up using a longer breaker bar to remove it

3. Did not tighten the bolt per BMW spec as I didn't have a digital torque wrench, I just tightened it as hard as I could (also not recommend in the manual)

4. I did align the steering column marking with the steering wheel so the wheels are centered correctly



I wish I had the manual before performing this procedure. Obviously I screwed something up... steering is fine though but I find the slack extremely annoying for an "OCD" person like me.



Was thinking to replace the hex bolt and repeat the procedure, this time by lowering the column during the installation/removal and also torquing the bolt to 63 nm.



The manual also mentions the following two lines which I think are redundant unless I miss something:

Quote:

---

• Align steering wheel and column match marks.

• Align steering wheel to alignment pins located on steering column

switch block.

---

What do you guys think?

Steering wheel play after installation, what did I screw up?

Change exhaust housing from divided to undivided?

Can I change the housing on a divided turbo, to a undivided?

Or is there any diffrence on the turbine Wheel?



Precision 6266 btw.

Change exhaust housing from divided to undivided?

Intermittent power loss - All hare-brained theories welcomed

Gents (are there any women in the E24 forum?),



For a few months now I've been living with a very intermittent problem: I'll be driving along, fat dumb and happy, and my power will momentarily cut out entirely. This isn't a hesitation, like a misfire, it's complete loss as if I'm lifting off the accelerator. No accompanying dash lights, either. If it happens at a stop, the car dies, but it usually happens at speed and then comes back within 1-2 seconds. Very occasionally (1x/month) power doesn't come back, I pull over to the side with hazards flashing, wait a minute, and the car starts back up and I make it home.



Here's what I've replaced in the past year (that could be suspect)-



Main FI relay

Fuel pump relay

Ignition wires, dizzy cap, rotor

Spark plugs

O2 sensor

Injectors (flow-balanced, new filters/seals, all resistance checked OK)

Bell housing speed and reference sensors

Vacuum hoses

TPS (it's the uncommon multi-switch one, and operates as advertised)



Two questions:

Can the transmission (4HP22) control unit cause this? Problem seems slightly more pronounced under heavy load, but it's almost as likely to happen on a flat road regardless of speed.

Should I suspect the neutral safety switch at all? I know it prevents starting if not in neutral/park, but if it has a bad connection will it also cut the engine?





I'm starting to suspect a wiring issue, most likely between the main relay and ECU. I'm about to go outside and check for any resistance between all the injection components and the ECU, per the hiperformancestore procedure. I'll report back if I find anything, but in the meantime wanted to put out the poll here and see if there's anything I'm considering.





As always thanks for your collective wisdom, or at least your humor!



Pete

Intermittent power loss - All hare-brained theories welcomed

NYC: looking for tint/Laminex shop near Flushing, Queens

Hi, guys.



I'm looking for a place to do a (non-ghetto!) tint on my E90 sedan. I park outside and want a slightly reflective tint to keep the interior temps down. Years ago RayBan used to offer something like this: you could barely see it (slight sheen), but it really dropped interior temps.



Also, I've got some Lamin-X for the headlights and foglights. You all know how crappy the roads are around here; some protection would be nice.



I live in Manhattan and commute to Flushing every day. I'd prefer to find a place to drop the car off near work.



Any suggestions?

NYC: looking for tint/Laminex shop near Flushing, Queens

Exhaust Heat Wrap

Exhaust Heat Wrap



I have two rolls of exhaust heat wrap. One roll had a little bit used, the other is untouched. $40 shipped in the US.



List Date: 4/19/2015



For more info, click here to view the original listing: Exhaust Heat Wrap

--------------------------------------

On Sale For: $40.00 + Shipping TBD





--------------------------------------





Mobile friendly version: Exhaust Heat Wrap



Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

Exhaust Heat Wrap

Falling RPM cuasing stalling while coasting in neutral

Last night I took my 04 330ci out for some spirited driving, and after getting on her a few times really good I was cruising into a town where the speed limit dropped so I tossed it into neutral and just let it roll down from 60 to 40mph and upon doing so the rpms fell to around 300 and then the car stalled out, luckily I just tossed the clutch in and started it back up quick but probably 5 minutes later repeating almost the exact same sequence of events, except this time I wasn't driving it hard, coasting in neutral doing about 40mph or so the rpms dipped and car stalled out again.... Can anyone point me in the right direction of what might be causing this? Thanks in advance!

Falling RPM cuasing stalling while coasting in neutral

E36 obd2 maf pigtail

I'm looking for the wiring from the maf as far back as possible, Obd2

Thanks!

E36 obd2 maf pigtail

How do people get their 335i to beastly HP ??

I'm just curious how do people get their cars to those 700+ HP and crazy torque ??

Like those 700HP 335i and even higher , Subaru STI with even higher numbers

How ?? ECU Tune, downpipes, exhaust or intake just doesn't get it there ? So how ?

How do people get their 335i to beastly HP ??

Bimmerworld sway bar endlink failure

I bought a pair of these last year from BW. I've put about 4k miles on the car with 1 track day, and in the middle of installing my Hotchkis bar today, I noticed the stud portion of one of the heim joints rotates within the inner portion of the joint. There's a fair bit of play which I'm sure will get worse with time. Has anyone had these fail in a similar fashion?



Also noticed that the nuts included with these endlinks are soft as butter and strip extremely easily...

Bimmerworld sway bar endlink failure

Possibly buying a 1998 328i sedan with tranny issue. Need some advice.

Hello, so I found this mint looking white with gray interior, sport package 98 328i, car is perfect running as far as engine and everything working as it should electronically. Car has 181,000 miles and is mostly all freeway 1-owner car. They claim trans has issues, drove the car and it seemed to be fine, has a semi firm shift every once and awhile, but when you put it in D it goes smooth and quick to engage, same with reverse, but as soon as you start backing up sometimes it will disengage and you hit the gas and it will engage again. The owner says sometimes in the morning D will do the same, with a slight noise, but most of the time the trans shifts as it should, no Check Engine Light or Trans malfunction light, could it be low on fluid or maybe just need a service? I have the opportunity of getting this car with no dents and perfect garaged paint and brand new tires for $1,300 I think its a good idea, even the front Harman/Kardon speakers aren't buzzy light most at this point. PLEASE HELP! Should I do it?

Possibly buying a 1998 328i sedan with tranny issue. Need some advice.

Track pads for DEs (searched)

I drive an M Coupe for DEs; it has stock calipers and blank rotors. My front set of HT-10s are toast. My rear HT-10s are still fairly new. I know HT-10s are old tech, but I thought they performed well. I am curious what people are thinking of the PFC 11s vs HT-10 vs PFC 08s for DE weekends.



How would either of the PFCs up front mate with the HT-10s in the rear; would the difference in compounds be too much?



Stick with HT-10s all around?



I'm sure this is a tired subject, but any insight would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks!

Track pads for DEs (searched)

F30 fuel pump failure?

'14 335xi.



Saw the recent impending recall notice on fuel pumps which really resonated with me because i had a failure to start a couple months back. This afternoon lost power and my attempts to start the car did produce quite the sputter. The longer I left it alone the easier it would start & the longer it would stay on (max 3-5 seconds).



Christmas came early. :buttrock Towed to dealership[1]. Anyone seen this?





[1] The truck driver didn't know how to put the car in neutral, played with my shit lever like it was an atari joy stick. Eventually successful by shifting to neutral in a 3-5 second window the engine was running. I suggested we look at the manual and attitude ensued. :rolleyes Mostly annoyed at myself for not knowing.

F30 fuel pump failure?

E46 Which Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (lower) to Use, Rubber or Ball Joint?

Hello all,, I'm replacing all the rear suspension bushings in my '03 330CI and see 2 BMW part numbers for that lower trailing arm bushing. #33326771828 (rubber) and 33326775551 (ball joint). This is the bushing that connects the lower rear control arm (aka salad tongs) to trailing arm. Preferences, recommendations toward either one?

E46 Which Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (lower) to Use, Rubber or Ball Joint?

2004, 525i, sedan, Speaker upgrade DIY recommendations

I've done a little research and found out that I would need "5.25" 3-leg speaker" for front and rear.



I was considering upgrading my driver and passenger side speakers, possibly tweeters as well (one tweeter crackles) and bring one of the front speakers to the rear.



One of my rear speakers crackle at a certain level and would need to be replaced.



I'm wondering if anyone can suggest me a common brand compatible for my car? Or estimated price for the speakers that are compatible, thanks.

2004, 525i, sedan, Speaker upgrade DIY recommendations

Engine And Engine Bay Pictures

Did a search but didn't find a thread with just engines or engine bay pictures so I'm thought I start one. If you have a favorite picture of your engine out of the bay or in please post it here.



Here's mine.

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Brake lights stay on / no cruise control...

OK, so I am new to the forum, but not new to BMW ownership, as this is my 2nd bimmer. Here's the deal: my brake lights recently decided to stay on all the time (lights on/lights off, pushing on brake pedal, not pushing, etc) AND the cruise control stopped working too. Thinking simple fix, I checked the fuse box... low and behold, they are both controlled by fuse #46! Not being an idiot, I replaced that fuse, with the correct fuse, and the problems still exist.

Is this weird or what?? I checked the infamous "brake light switch" and trouble-shot that, but it appears to work OK. Is this something I am going to have to take in to have looked at?

Brake lights stay on / no cruise control...

WTB M60 Oil Pump

I just broke the shaft on my oil pump for the 540i. Does anyone bu chance have one sitting around that I could buy? I'd need it shipped unless you're in SW Michigan. Thanks for looking.

WTB M60 Oil Pump

Engine issue

The 328i quit while at the gas station.

Turned over but No restart.

Mechanic (not BMW) determined by looking through the cap that the cam was not turning and diagnosed a broken timing chain. The consensus was to expect major component damage and either rebuild or replace the motor.

I realize that an accurate examination and diagnosis of what happened and what damage has occurred is only possible from a tear down.

Ok, the question is, from the simple diagnosis provided what to do. Naturally cost is a factor.

Thanks



Dave

Engine issue

~Truly One-Of-A-Kind 2003 540i6 M-Sport~ #747 of 1265 Completely Blacked Out!! **DINAN STAGE 5**

~Truly One-Of-A-Kind 2003 540i6 M-Sport~ #747 of 1265 Completely Blacked Out!! **DINAN STAGE 5**



~Just dropped a M62tu engine w/45,XXX miles in, along w new tensioners, hoses, belts, 5w-40 Lubro Molly full synthetic oil, all new gaskets, plugs, et cetera. MY LOSS IS YOUR GAIN, as I can't afford to take care of her like she deserves.~

Also, JUST INSTALLED NEW LUX:PRESSURE PLARE, CLUTCH, FLYWHEEL, AS WELL AS ALL THE SEALS, SHIFT LINKAGE, & PILOT BEARING.



What I'm selling:



A 100% ONE-OF-A-KIND, COMPLETELY BLACKED-OUT 2003 540i/6 M-Sport, w/over 355HP/400ft lb torque, and OVER $32,000 in ALL BMW (DINAN, KONI, EIBACH, ZIMMERMAN, etc) approved upgrades.

Now, couple that with what I'm going to list, & I'm confident you'll agree, that there is NO other 540i6 that compares to this one ANYWHERE. Before I begin, let me explain why I invested such ridiculous amounts of cash into my baby. Being that I never fathomed I'd have to sell or trade her EVER, I figured investing whatever I saw fit was strictly my prerogative. Q™Y[œ™YHÈ™Y™\™[˜ÙH[˜[‰ÜÈÚ]HÚ]H\[X™\œÈ\ÝY™[Ý΃BƒB‘SSˆÛÛZ\ˆ[ZÙHÑ

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~Truly One-Of-A-Kind 2003 540i6 M-Sport~ #747 of 1265 Completely Blacked Out!! **DINAN STAGE 5**

Seafood in oil

I'm running a treatment through the gas.



I was reading the cam and it says to run a ounce in with the oil.



I'm about due for a oil change .....is there any benifit to running through the oil? . Should I do it before the change if so?

Seafood in oil

E36 Midpipe

E36 Midpipe



E36 midpipe for sale. I bought it a couple years ago and didn't install it before I sold my 328is. 135k on the midpipe, no O2 sensors, everything worked before it came off the previous car. No rust. I'm moving in a month and a half and would like to get this out of the garage.



I'm asking $150 and will meet anywhere within reasonable distance from central North Carolina. Send an email to [my username] at yahoo [dot] com.



List Date: 4/18/2015

Location: Durham, NC, United States



For more info, click here to view the original listing: E36 Midpipe

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On Sale For: $154.79 (Local Pickup Only)





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Mobile friendly version: E36 Midpipe



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E36 Midpipe

Poor E38

was parked at my office along the side of the street. lady was coming down the street, lost control, nicked a small tree, hit a pedestrian (hopefully he'll be ok), shaved the front of my E38, hit my coworker's Camry pretty bad (enough to push it a good 5 feet sideways...we were all parked parallel to each other so you can really see how much it moved), nicked another coworker's prius bumper. Another coworkers truck got it's antenna torn out of the base and some paint damage from debris.



she drives fine, no warning lights on the dash. all my lights still work, not leaking anything. only thing i noticed that wasn't bodywork was the bumper itself got dented where you can see the bumper cover tore off.



Not sure what insurance will decide to do, if it gets totaled i'll be pretty sad. I spent a good amount of time and money getting her sorted out. Maybe if that happens i'll buy it back and take out all my swap parts and find another E38 to convert :)



Luckily all the other cars she hit were all parked and unoccupied. Surprisingly no others were involved. The street is relatively busy, two lanes each way.



Everyone hug your E38s today (and anything else in the stable...)

Poor E38

E36 black interior carpet

As the title states I'm looking for a black interior carpet. I'd like to purchase 1 locally, but if the price is right I'll pay for shipping. NY/NJ/CT/PA

E36 black interior carpet

1985 bmw 325e

1985 BMW 325E



Selling my 1985 BMW 325e everything runs perfect on this car.**PRICE REDUCE **asking 2,400 Timing belt was done recently, engine was rebuilt & clutch and running stronger than ever! Speedometer/odometer stopped working last week and have yet to figure out what is causing this. Will replace once I figure it out. Dont let this scare you the car drives perfect and will please any BMW enthusiast. please. Only things that are wrong is the dash cluster and the antenna broke so some radio channels are fuzzy but it has after market stereo with an aux cable so it doesn't bother me. It does have some wear in tear in the interior from being so old and the only thing that is noticeable is the rip in the driver/passenger side seat other than that the car is pretty mint! *NO TRADES*. Text or call for more info. 801-564-5307 ( NO EMAIL )



List Date: 4/17/2015

Location: Salt Lake City, UT, United States



For more info, click here to view the original listing: 1985 BMW 325E

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On Sale For: $2,400.00 (Local Pickup Only)





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Mobile friendly version: 1985 BMW 325E



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1985 bmw 325e

Driving with the tapping noise

What are the downsides to driving with a tapping noise in the engine? My issue is similar to what is described below. I changed my vanos seals 6 months ago and since then the noise has developed.

http://ift.tt/1HgpPSc



Today I checked to see if one of my spark plugs were loose. The noise persist. will the vanos bearing just die one day? Thanks.

Driving with the tapping noise

Control arms and bushings

I'm gonna order some front control arms and bushings for my 325 this weekend. Finally getting to it. Does anyone have experience with the Meyle control arms? I installed all Lemforder suspension parts including control arms on my e36 and was more than pleased. But I notice the Meyle arms are about $60 cheaper for the pair and kinda like the idea of having serviceable ball joints. Just wanted some input if they are as good as Lemforder.

Control arms and bushings

e34 as a second car

This might be a silly question, but does anyone have their e34 as a second car or otherwise "winter beater" car? Have you thought about getting rid of it or do you keep it for that sole purpose.



Any particularly good reasons to keep or have a second car?



My background: Live in WI, own an e34 and another newer car. Have winter wheels and tires for the e34, which is parked outside year-round. I drive it primarily in the winter, and the other car when it's warmer.



If I sell the e34, I would get a winter tire set for the other car. Insurance coverage on the e34 is liability only, which comes out to be like $175/year. Gas mileage is similar for both cars. The e34 doesn't have any issues that require immediate attention as of right now. It's only got 107K miles on it but has rust on the door trim area, and the edges of the hood, fenders and trunk. And lastly....AT

e34 as a second car

Parking brake; emergency brake - only one side works

After replacing the rear wheel bearings/cv axles last year, and reassembling the parking brake/emergency brake assembly, only one side of my e brakes engage (passenger). I'm pretty sure both sides were working before I did the bearing/cv overhaul.

I pulled the rotor on the driver's side and had my son lift the e brake handle. The pass. side engaged and tightened, but there was no movement on the driver's side.

Obviously a cable issue, but is this definitely a broken cable, or could it be something else, like the driver's side cable being disconnected?

I can't get under the car at the moment, so I'm kind of shooting in the dark here...

Thanks,

J.P.

Parking brake; emergency brake - only one side works

1994 BMW 740iL ABS Pump Problem

Hi Guys,



I have another issue that i want to run by you,

in the past 8 months, i have had to replace the ABS Pump & Master Cylinder 2 times.

It is now coming up on the 3rd time.

Symptoms are as follows,

After i have driven the car for up to 10 miles,

Ride appears more sluggish, (Like brakes are engaging)

The result is that the car wont move in drive or reverse and cannot be moved in neutral.

Like brakes are fully engaged.

In testing, distance gets shorter.

the end result is that i let the car sit for 1 hour,

then i can drive it for a shorter distance.

The Parts that i replace have been New OEM replacements.

it appears that after i have replaced the parts, the car runs ok for 2 months.



In trying to resolve this issue,

i want to ask if the issue is related to a Trans Program error that i am trying to resolve.

I have replaced the speed shift sensor in trans, MAF, Both O2 sensors,

replaced trans fluid & filter.

car rides sluggish in 1st gear.

I am getting 1221 stomp error now.



Could the issues be related, could 1 effect the other?



any advice would be greatly appreciated...

1994 BMW 740iL ABS Pump Problem

Differential fluid?

What is the recommended differential oil for a 3.46 LSD?

Differential fluid?

am changing ccv pipes, should i do my Valve Cover Gasket too?

my car is burning oil alot!

white smoke is coming out the back it used too come out alot now not so really. and some times loss of power. i have recently cleaned my idle control box and now my car got better idle and sounds little bit normal

but yea my question is am changing ccv pipes, should i do my Valve Cover Gasket too?

becuase my when i replaced my spark plugs they wore soaked in oil.

am changing ccv pipes, should i do my Valve Cover Gasket too?

Long Beach GP April 17-19 2015 ticket discounts

if any of you are planning to go to the Long Beach Grand Prix this weekend, either Friday Saturday or Sunday. Be sure to send me a private message/email, I can get you into the event for a little bit cheaper than what they're selling the tickets for.

Long Beach GP April 17-19 2015 ticket discounts

Fail Smog Test

Hello Shark Fans,

My 89 fail the California smog test at the 25 mph. At 15 mph it is fine. It idle as if I have a street cam. I r/r the idle control valve, spark plugs, wires, MAF, O2, cap and rotor. It runs fine when I am driving. HELP!!!!

Fail Smog Test

What is my cars problem?? Help please

It all started when one morning I came and tried to start my car on but nothing came on at all. Electronics didn't work either.

I didn't bother with jump starting until later in the day, but the car magically worked all of a sudden without a jump start.

About 5 days later, it happened again except this time i didn't have time to wait and had to jump start it. It worked.

This happened 3 more times throughout a 10 day period. But eventually it started happening consecutively in a day.

One day, I tried push starting it and I could hear the engine turn on for a sec and stay at idle for about 2 second while the odometer and all other electronics didn't turn on. So I went and bought a new battery.

It stopped happening for for 2 days but on the third, the same thing happened. No electronics lit up and no crank.

I tried jump starting it and all electronics came on but the engine wouldn't crank. I kept hearing a clicking sound which I'm pretty sure was the starter? After 4 or 5 times of turning the key, it stopped clicking, and eventually all electronics stopped too. So my question is what could this be? Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated.

What is my cars problem?? Help please

Trickle Charger Questions

So I waited too long between drives on my '89 325i and now I've got a dead battery. I've got a trickle charger, but I want to ensure that I use it properly (last time I think it sent a power surge that made me have to reset my OBC--I don't want to take too many chances on that as one day the OBC may not reset).



I'd like to ensure that I'm doing the following three things in the proper order: (i) Thing One: Power plug from outlet to charger; (ii) Thing Two: Red cable to red terminal on the battery; (iii) Thing Three: Black cable to black terminal on the battery. In what order should I do these "things"? Am I supposed to hook one of the cables to "ground" instead of the battery (I never understood how this worked and I've never had trouble jumping a car based on hooking both jumper cables to the battery instead of one to the frame).



Also, my charger has a couple of options I can select with an old fashioned switch. I know I pick the 12V setting. I think I can also choose between more amps and fewer amps. Which amps should I pick when I don't care how long it takes to get a charge?



Thanks in advance for any tips/suggestions!!

Trickle Charger Questions

Gear Shift knob

Debating between leather or this gear shift knob. Does anyone have this on their Z???http://ift.tt/1CQEvTh

Gear Shift knob

NY WTB 8-series OEM 16" wheels

like the title says i'm looking for these 8-series OEM 16" wheels. With or without tires is fine. Please let me know. I'm located in NYC Queens. Thanks.

NY WTB 8-series OEM 16" wheels

318i starting problem

98 318i 201k.



http://ift.tt/1CPYnpy



Has anyone experienced this before or have any idea to what it is. any input will help

318i starting problem

Rain Gutter

Okay, I give...



I just bought a used 325i and have been removing broken/worn out pieces / parts by searching the forums for TIPS and HOW-TO's; THANK YOU to everyone for all the posts!



The one thing I CANNOT find is how to remove the rain gutters!



The driver side rear curved piece has fallen off and the 3 clips that slide INTO the channels and snap onto the car are broken.



I'm picking up new clips from the dealer today, but I cannot figure out HOW to get the assembled trim/clips BACK onto the car and, conversely, how to remove the gutters.



I found one thread that described removing the gutters by simply pulling straight out, but it seems that will break the clips...?



ANY help is greatly appreciated!

Rain Gutter

innovate AFR guage

A few years ago, my narrow band O2 sensor went south, so I installed an Innovate wide band. Worked great.... for a while.

Now, half (or more) of the time, it goes to an error code and just quits.



Of course, since mine started acting up, I have seen a few posts of others complaining.



Anyone know, is it the unit itself that craps out, or the sensor. Don't mind replacing the sensor.



If I need to ditch the whole thing, I will. What brands are you guys running successfully?

innovate AFR guage

e34 Touring parts car VT

1993 525iT, all around pretty rough shape, but would make a decent parts car.



207k, ran good when parked, should fire right up with a proper charge. Had some cooling system woes toward the end of her life, had an overheating episode that didn't seem to have any effect on the engine, although if you were going to swap this engine, I'd do the HG for good measure.



Body isn't perfect, some dings, etc, and rust creeping on the lower edges. Interior is pretty rough as well.



Suspension was getting a bit tired (need struts pretty bad). New lower control arms (DS hasn't been installed). 16x8 style 5s with usable tires.





$500 Bring a trailer, located in southern Vermont.



Please let me know if you have any questions.







Pictures to come..

e34 Touring parts car VT

Center cap size for M System turbines

Hi all,



I've been trying to track down some center caps for the M system turbines on my M5, however it seems that the standard roundels are too small. A search online shows that there is a 70mm emblem sticker available, but no corresponding cap. Does anyone know that that is the correct size for these wheels?

Center cap size for M System turbines

Z3 E36/7 Free Stock M Exhaust (Austin, TX)

Someone come get these out of my garage. Good shape. No rust. Tips are shiny.



I'll eventually take these to the scrap yard but if this post doesn't indicate otherwise, they are still available.

Z3 E36/7 Free Stock M Exhaust (Austin, TX)

M62 Crank Holding Tool

I just tried to buy a crank holding tool to remove the Jesus bolt, and it seems like the quickest I could get one is end of the month.



If anyone has one, and is willing to rent or sell, please PM me!



Thank you

M62 Crank Holding Tool

Need help picking which used BMW to get

I have two options in consideration:



Car 1:

2012 BMW 328i

4 cyl. Turbo

42,000 mileage

Has navigation and rear backup camera

Carfax report shows 1 owner with 1 service/maintenance record

Type of owner is Personal Lease



Car 2:

2011 BMW 535i

6 Cyl. Turbo

76,000 mileage

Has navigation, premium sound upgrade, moonroof, and xenon headlights

Carfax report shows 1 owner with at least a yearly service/maintenance record totalling to 10

Type of owner is Personal



Both cars costs $24,000.





I'm really tempted by the price of the 5 series, but that huge mileage is pretty daunting. The difference between the two in mileage is about 35k. However, the carfax record shows it was well maintained and pictures looked nice with very clean interior and no noticeable damage. Same story with the 3 series, clean interior with no noticeable damage but with almost half the mileage.



I can't really tell which one is the better deal. Could someone give me an expert advice? Much appreciated.

Need help picking which used BMW to get

Glovebox help

Is there a trick to opening a broken glovebox? The handle just lifts and won't open. I've managed to get a screw driver between the top of glove and dash and still can't pry it open with minimal force. I don't want to over do it and damage any of the leather.



Am I missing something?

Glovebox help

Just stalls and no one knows why....

I have a 200 745i and with just shy of 100k miles. Now the car just stalls and sometimes won't start of hours and sometimes pretty quick.

I have had this taken into 3 shops and 2 of them are BMW certified centers. The answer is that no one knows why. I mostly get that this car has a lot of issues and to pinpoint is very difficult, especially with these cars. They service centers are having problems replicating the issue, however it did stall one time while they had it in their possesion and hooked up to some kind of "computer" and apparently the codes don't give them any resolution.

So i am trying to figure out if i should take it to an actual dealer for repairs? My concern is that everyone seems to say that you will eventually fix the problem, but only have you just keep spending $$ on each item to repair. Sooner or later you will hit the issue, but you will dump thousands of $$ into the car before you get there. I have replaced the sensor for the air (air meter sensor), still not helping.

So what would you all recommend? Anyone else having this issue?

Again, the car sometimes stalls (usually when at a light or stopped in traffic) when i am stopped for a few minutes. Not all the time, about 1/ week now. And after it stalls i can wait a few minutes and it will start or it could be hours. In the latter case i have the car towed and the BMW certified location tries hooking up different batteries and such and nothing seems to work.

Help please-

Just stalls and no one knows why....

BNIB UUC Red Urethane Engine/Motor Mounts - E36/E46/Z3/Z4/E9x M3

BNIB UUC Red Urethane Engine/Motor Mounts - E36/E46/Z3/Z4/E9x M3



Brand new in the box, decided to go with a different mount for the engine/tranny on the Z3M.



UUC SKU: ENGMT-RACE-1



From UUC's website:



Engine Mount - Racing version



This part is intended for race/track cars and combination street/track cars. Some additional vibration may be experienced.



It is recommended to pair these with any of our performance Transmission Mount sets, sold separately.



To meet the demanding needs of racers, the new urethane engine mount features a hybrid design sharing features of standard rubber mounts and solid metal racing mounts:



* High-durometer urethane bushings are stiff enough to provide nearly flex-free support, yet still absorb some amount of vibration.



* Virtually eliminates flex and bushing separation from powertrain rotational forces (especially with high-powered cars).



* Direct-fit design with correct anti-rotation nub ensures hassle-free installation on any 1992-2005 3-series, M3, Z3, Z4, and E9x M3.



* Stainless steel hardware.



* LIFETIME WARRANTY.



FITS:



E46 1999-2005 M3, 330, 328, 325, 323

E36 1992-1999 M3, 328*, 325*, 323*, 318

all Z3

all Z4

E90/E92 2007-2012 M3



* not for E36 328/325/323 convertible"



Paid $215+s/h



$200 shipped USPS. Local meetup around NYC.



List Date: 4/15/2015



For more info, click here to view the original listing: BNIB UUC Red Urethane Engine/Motor Mounts - E36/E46/Z3/Z4/E9x M3

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On Sale For: $200.00 + Shipping TBD





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BNIB UUC Red Urethane Engine/Motor Mounts - E36/E46/Z3/Z4/E9x M3

335d with sport option?

Did the e90 335d never come w sports package?

i cant seem to find a single listing w this option...

i really like the sport steering over the standard e90 steering wheel....

335d with sport option?

Please help!!! Coolant Level is Up and down!!!! Z3 1.9L

Hi,



I hope this is the right place for this sort of issue!



I have replaced my radiator on my BMW Z3 2000 plate 1.9L, the system has been bled and is producing amazing heat in cabin and showing no signs of overheating, temp needle sitting at normal 12 o'clock.



I have also had the system pressure tested, head gasket tested and all has come back fine although i am aware that bad head gaskets can sometimes not show up.



My problem is that my coolant level is all over the place 100 miles down the line from Rad replacement. I have been constantly checking the coolant fearing that it will either over spill or wont be enough in the tank.



I will use Sunday, Monday, Tuesday and today as an example;

• The system is bled by me filling it up until all bubbles have stopped coming out of the bleed hole, I then put in the bleed screw in and tighten. I then top the coolant off to the cold mark level before starting the engine and put the cap on. Once it gradually gets up to temp and the heat is warm and it contentiously gets hotter in the cabin. The coolant level rises an inch or 2 once its reached normal temp at idle after 20 mins or so.


• I then take the car for a drive 2 miles or so and park up to check my coolant level and notice its gone a good inch or so down below the cold mark but I still have amazing heat and the temp needle is still at normal temp 12 o'clock. I believe at this time I haven't lost any coolant as previous to this I have released the bleed screw and the tank fills up to the top with coolant. So I drive it home and leave it over night to cool completely off.


• The next day I check the coolant level whilst the engine is stone cold. The level reads about half an inch maybe an inch from the bottom of tank. I read on here that no matter what the coolant level should sit on the cold mark when the engine is stone cold to be at the correct level for the system. So with that in mind I take the cap off and top it off to the cold mark. I then start up the car and wait for warm air in the cabin, once I have warm air I check the coolant level and it has not really risen up as the temp is about a 1/4 of the way from normal temp 12 o'clock.


• At this point I take the car for a drive about 2 - 3 miles and pull up to check the coolant level. The level has risen from the cold mark to just below the warm mark on the tank and the car is at normal temp 12 o'clock kicking out amazing heat. I then do this lap again and pull the car up on my driveway to check the coolant level. The level is about 2-3 inches from the top of the cap on tank, the temp needle is still at normal temp 12 o'clock and is still kicking out amazing heat.


• At this point I'm confused as I'm not sure if the level is meant to rise that much "this is because of the warm mark on the tank". I then call it a night to let the engine cool down so I can check the level in the morning.


• I check the coolant level this morning and as predicted and hoped the coolant level had gone down but not to where I expected it to. It was about an inch above the warm mark on the tank. I started the car and gave it a couple of good revs and then checked the level, the level had dropped about half way between the warm mark and the cold mark. Again this baffled me as I'm now very confused.

I guess the questions I feel to ask are;

1. Is the coolant meant to rise as high as it did last night "2-3 inches from the top of the cap on tank"? If not what's going on?


2. Is the coolant level meant to drop back to the cold mark every single time after the engine/system has cooled down completely? If yes then why is mine not?

I think that will do to start, apologies for the run down, any info/knowledge on this would be well appreciated.



Thank you in advance

Please help!!! Coolant Level is Up and down!!!! Z3 1.9L

Temp Sensor Location of a BMW M40B18 Engine ? (1991 E36)

Hi All,



Can someone tell me where is the Temp Sensor located in M40B18 engine of a 1991 E36 model? also for a failure of a temp sensor can it stops firing the plugs ?

Please help...

Temp Sensor Location of a BMW M40B18 Engine ? (1991 E36)

1986 e30 power window problems help

So both my windows do not roll down or up I know the drivers side motor is fine cause when U hook up power and ground to it it operates the passenger side motor does not so I need to replace that but besides that the fuse is fine the circuit break is bad so I jumped 12 volts to the other wire and can her the motor click on the passenger side but on the drivers side nothing and i know the switches are fine cause they are brand new any help please I just want be be able to roll my window down!!!!

1986 e30 power window problems help

E34 4.10 lsd

E34 4.10 LSD



4.10 Geared LSD , 140k miles, car was well maintained and never abused, ready foe a new home.



List Date: 4/15/2015

Location: WA, United States



For more info, click here to view the original listing: E34 4.10 LSD

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On Sale For: $180.00 (Local Pickup Only)





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E34 4.10 lsd

Fuel Tank Question

Got a question I probably don't want the answer to. I recently had to change the fuel pump on my '01 325XI. Everything was straight forward when I replaced the pump and sending unit. However, I went and filled up my car and had a fairly significant leak from the tank. After I risked life and limb driving the car back to my house and parking it in the garage (I like putting all my worldly possessions at risk at one time), I found the white ring attached to the fuel tank cracked in half. This is the threaded ring the fuel pump locking ring screws down on to and holds and seals the fuel pump to/in the tank. After a significant time researching the internet, calling an indy, and the dealer, I'm being told it is part of the tank and isn't sold separately. I was wondering if anyone has run across an option for replacing it or if it can only be repaired/replaced with a new tank.

Attached Images

• inv_000297.jpg (540.6 KB)

Fuel Tank Question

Transmission wont shift when engine is running

I have a 1995 Bmw 325is just put in a rebuilt transmission, replaced the clutch and throw out bearing and installed a new slave cylinder. The problem is the car will not shift gears with the engine running. If I put the car in first gear and start the car it will idle and the clutch releases right off the floor however I can't shift to another gear. The old clutch worked perfect. The clutch pedal feels firm. Would air in the system cause this problem. Have no air coming out of the slave cylinder. Any thoughts Thanks.

Transmission wont shift when engine is running

New wheel question

Hey i have a 2011 Lci e90 335xi and I just ordered a square set of VMR v701 18x8.5 et35 wheels. I got 235/40r18 tires to go with them. I wanted to add some spacers to make the wheels more flush with the fender but not sure what size to go with. I will eventually lower the car slightly with koni fsd's and eibach pro kit springs and what the spacers to work at stock height for now and eventually with a drop. Thanks for any help you guys can give.

New wheel question

BMW 545i Engine swap ( maybe x5 engine? )

hi everyone :

i bought a bmw 545i recently (166k km). Anyway , after the purchase in about a week or so the engine broke :D

i don't want to bother you with the details , I Found a relatively cheap engine (with only 1 month warranty :shifty)

but the thing is , i'm not sure what engine it is :confused , i know it's an N62, but compared to my old engine it's different from the front ( the alternator is different or the bracket i'm not sure)

the seller claims it's taken from a 745il but it should be totally the same as the 545i engine as far as i know! , so i'm thinking it could from an X5 since the horsepower on its N62b44 is different from the rest? or could it be N62B48?

more info on how to identify the engine is appreciated. :D

BMW 545i Engine swap ( maybe x5 engine? )

FS: set of 5 forged m systems with throwing star covers.

As the title says, I have a set of 5 forged m systems with covers for sale. Square set of 8's with good tires. The 5th/spare is absolutely mint, the others could use some cleaning/paint but drive great.



Asking 1000, will consider shipping on your dime. I would like to sell as a set at this time.

FS: set of 5 forged m systems with throwing star covers.

Coupe owners: check your other spot welds

double post whoops

Coupe owners: check your other spot welds

1991 E34 M5 Clean, Fast

1991 E34 M5 Clean, Fast



Alpine White II with grey interior. 205K miles. I'm the second owner having bought it at 95K. Excellent compression (all cylinders between 195 and 205). SLS removed and replaced with Koni Sports and M-Technic springs. Koni Sports up front as well. Camber plates (3 degrees fixed) up front. HID low beam elipsoid headlights. 18 inch M-Parallel wheels with nearly new Michelin Pilot Super Sports. D'Silva chip. UUC short shifter. Original lighted shift knob. Recently replaced drive shaft and flex disk. New control arm bushings. California car from delivery. Always garaged. Maintained at Bavarian Professionals in Berkeley since 95K miles. Never over 3K RPM before oil is hot. Supersprint muffler (OEM muffler available). Never tracked. It has a couple of small dents and the usual assortment of paint chips up front. Radio needs to be replaced. Contact alanmreinke at gmail dot com. Serious inquiries only.



List Date: 4/14/2015

Location: Berkeley, CA, United States



For more info, click here to view the original listing: 1991 E34 M5 Clean, Fast

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On Sale For: $9,500.00 (Local Pickup Only)





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1991 E34 M5 Clean, Fast