I recently performed a clutch job on my 1999 M Coupe and thought I'd share some of my experience. There are a lot of excellent resources out there (listed below), so this isn't supposed to be a complete DIY, but rather just some tips and thoughts about my experience. I also replaced the shifter bushings, transmission bushings, and center support bearing. I would recommend replacing your guibo too if necessary (I did mine a few months ago). Other than the flywheel which I bought directly from Gripforce, I sourced all of my parts from Pelican Parts, FCP Euro, and AutohausAZ.
The installation was pretty straightforward, however I wouldn't call it easy by any means. I was working at a DIY garage with a lift and many professional tools (bearing puller, transmission jack, air tools, etc.) at my disposal and I still ran into difficulties. I imagine without them, I wouldn't stand a chance. If you're in the LA area, I highly recommend performing the work at urdreamgarage.com. It's a great place where you can rent a lift and tools by the hour or day.
Overview
Gripforce FX Racing Chromoly Flywheel - 14.5 lbs
Sachs E34 Sprung Clutch Disc (21212226594) - 3.9 lbs
Sachs OEM Pressure plate - 11.9 lbs
The stock dual mass flywheel weighs 22.8 lbs and and unsprung clutch disc weighs 2.5 lbs so this setup contributes to about 7 lbs savings total. The chatter is barely noticeable when idling; I can hear it but can't feel it. It sounds sort of like water running through pipes on the inside of your house if you were to put your ear up to the wall. However, the noise level is minimal and you'll probably only notice it if you're listening for it.
I haven't broken in the clutch yet (500 mi) so I can't comment on the acceleration but I have noticed the car revs much more freely. So far happy with this setup.
Some install tips
Dropping the exhaust
You don't have to drop the entire exhaust, just the center pipes as per Vinci's DIY.
Infamous bitch clip
This clip was indeed a bitch to take off, however a good understanding of how it works allowed me to do it in about 5 minutes. Lowering the tranny helps give your hands clearance and a small screwdriver to jam between the "tang" will help with the job.
http://ift.tt/1N7iOpB The pelican DIY on shifter bushings also has some good advice on removing the clip.
Undoing the tranmission bolts
You will need a 2-3 foot extension, u-joints, a breaker bar, and female torx sockets for the job. Some of these were difficult to access and I ended up stripping one of the bolts. Had to replace it with a new one which set me back a day. You may want to consider buying an extra set of bolts before you start the job. You can always return them.
Separating the transmission
This was the most difficult part. It took a lot of work to get the transmission separated from the engine. Between me and a helper, it probably took 30 minutes of wiggling, pulling, and delicate prying to separate it. I cannot imagine doing this on jack stands without a transmission jack
Flywheel and Clutch install
You'll need a pilot bearing puller to replace the pilot bearing and if you buy your parts separately (no kit) make sure you get a clutch alignment tool as well. There are some tools people have come up with to hold the flywheel in place while torquing the bolts. I didn't have them and had to make due with a pry bar and an assistant. I screwed in a transmission bolt to push against with the pry bar while torquing. Remember to thoroughly clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces with brake cleaner immediately prior to installing. Gloves get greasy and you don't want any impurities on any of the surfaces. Since my aftermarket flywheel bolts didn't come with threadlocker on them, I applied blue loctite before installing. The sprung clutch disc has "gearbox side" printed on one side of it. Following the advice of others, I installed it backwards with the "gearbox side" facing the front of the car. I also compared this orientation to the stock disc and found it makes sense. Haven't had a problem.
Bell housing internals
I thoroughly cleaned off the inside of the bell housing with brake cleaner and installed the parts dry. After doing some research, this seemed the way to go since the moving parts other than the fork are plastic. A dry lubricant could also be used but didn't seem necessary. This step was also the step I felt least confident about, so when performing this job, be sure to take a good look the internals of the bell housing before you disassemble the parts. Also, after a lot of deliberation I decided to use a OEM plastic pivot pin instead of an upgraded metal one. I figure it worked fine before.
Seals
Other than the selector rod seal (as part of the shifter bushing overhaul), I didn't replace any of the seals since they weren't leaking and I read that a lot of people had leaks after replacing old seals with new ones. Not sure if that just speaks to a job poorly performed, but I decided to take my chances and deal with the leak when it occurs.
Shifter Bushings
This job was more time consuming than I expected, plan for a couple hours. The most difficult part was the shifter ball bushing (25111469397). I hear there is a tool to help get this out, I fought with it for a while using 90 degree pliers but was unsuccessful and ended up having to dremel it out. There probably is an easier way, but be forewarned. The carrier bushing was quite easily removed and a new one pressed in with a vice. There are kits out there but I don't recommend replacing every single part. The list below is what I replaced, got them individually from autohausaz. As for the difference, the shifter bushings definitely made operation a little smoother, and 5th is less sticky now.
Shift Pins
I decided against doing this job. Not sure what kind of improvement I'd see after replacing the shift pins, but it's shifting better than before and I didn't really have any issues previously, so I'm happy.
Reattaching the transmission to the Engine
This wasn't nearly as difficult as removing it however you'll still need helper. Also, it's good to have someone holding on the the bolts while you're torquing them to ensure they don't slip off. Lastly, bear in mind that two of the bolts screw into the starter. I had to hold the starter in position while my helper guided the bolts in.
Center Support Bearing
The bearing is a tight fit. You'll need a bearing puller kit (http://ift.tt/1N7iNlu) to get it off. Also, there's a good chance you'll screw up the backing plate while removing so I would plan on replacing that too. I also replaced the lock ring, seemed prudent. To get the bearing back on, I used a short piece of 1 1/4" PVC pipe and a club hammer. The rubber mallet got me no where.
Centering Sleeve
On a whim, I decided to replace this part as well. This is a decision I regret as I'm not sure it was necessary and it was a lot of work to get it out. Since the bushing has rubber on the inside and metal on the outside, my pilot bearing puller ended up just tearing up the rubber instead of pulling the whole sleeve out. After trying many different approaches, I ended up using a dremel to remove the rubber on two sides after which the bearing puller was able to do its job. I then used a press to get the new sleeve in. It's a tight fit!
E21 Transmission Mounts
Looking for a little extra performance, I went with E21 OEM transmission mounts. I looked at some aftermarket parts but ultimately decided these were cheap and met the performance-comfort balance I was looking for. To install these you'll need to increase the diameter of the holes in the cross member where the mounts bolt into since bolts of the E21 mounts are thicker. A drill press worked perfectly for this job. You'll also need to ensure you buy nuts and washers to fit. Lastly, the cross member has a couple of nubs for fitting purposes that will prevent the E21 mounts from sitting flush. You'll need to grind these flat using a dremel or some other tool. This mod was very easy.
Part List - Clutch
21212228289 - Sachs clutch kit (replaced the stock disc with E34 M5 disc)
21212226594 - E34 M5 Sprung Clutch Disc
Gripforce FX Racing Chromoly Flywheel
11211720310 - Pilot Bearing (I went with Genuine BMW)
07119906045 - Pressure plate bolts (you'll need 6)
11222243051 - OEM flywheel bolts (if you're sticking with the OEM flywheel, you'll need 8. My LWFW came with shorter bolts)
21511223328 - Pivot Pin
21517570284 - Spring clip
26127536563 - Flex Joint Lock Nuts (one-time use, you'll need 6)
18301716888 - Exhaust Gasket (one-time use, you'll need 2)
25111221849 - Locking pin for shift lever support arm bushing (aka bitch clip, there's a good chance you'll screw up your old one while taking it off)
Other parts to replace (while in there)
23711109173 - E21 transmission mounts (buy nuts and washers to fit)
26122227278 - Center support bearing
26111226553 - Backing plate for CSB
26123648156 - Lock-ring for CSB
26111226552 - Dust cover for CSB (I didn't replace mine, just cleaned off the old one)
26112226527 - Flex disc guibo
26117526611 - Centering sleeve (see my experience above)
Part List - Shifter Bushings
25111220439 - Plastic washer (you'll need 4)
25117507695 - Shifter bushing at shift level support
23411466118 - Shifter rod coupler bushing (pretty sure it's made of foam, you'll almost certainly need a new one of these)
25111469397 - Shifter ball bushing (very difficult to get off, I would reconsider replacing if the current one looks ok)
25111221700 - Rubber shift boot (I replaced mine, not sure it was necessary)
25111222015 - Rear shifter arm bushing (probably good to replace)
25117571899 - Shifter circlip (you'll need 2 of these, probably could reuse, but it's a cheap part)
23111204223 - Shift shaft seal (I replaced mine, not sure it was necessary)
Clutch DIY's
http://ift.tt/1eD4rtg
http://ift.tt/18f8k6S
http://ift.tt/18f8mLX
Torque Values
http://ift.tt/1N7iNlw
Shifter Bushing DIY
http://ift.tt/18f8mM0
Book
http://ift.tt/1N7iNlE
Part diagrams
http://ift.tt/18f8k6Z
The installation was pretty straightforward, however I wouldn't call it easy by any means. I was working at a DIY garage with a lift and many professional tools (bearing puller, transmission jack, air tools, etc.) at my disposal and I still ran into difficulties. I imagine without them, I wouldn't stand a chance. If you're in the LA area, I highly recommend performing the work at urdreamgarage.com. It's a great place where you can rent a lift and tools by the hour or day.
Overview
Gripforce FX Racing Chromoly Flywheel - 14.5 lbs
Sachs E34 Sprung Clutch Disc (21212226594) - 3.9 lbs
Sachs OEM Pressure plate - 11.9 lbs
The stock dual mass flywheel weighs 22.8 lbs and and unsprung clutch disc weighs 2.5 lbs so this setup contributes to about 7 lbs savings total. The chatter is barely noticeable when idling; I can hear it but can't feel it. It sounds sort of like water running through pipes on the inside of your house if you were to put your ear up to the wall. However, the noise level is minimal and you'll probably only notice it if you're listening for it.
I haven't broken in the clutch yet (500 mi) so I can't comment on the acceleration but I have noticed the car revs much more freely. So far happy with this setup.
Some install tips
Dropping the exhaust
You don't have to drop the entire exhaust, just the center pipes as per Vinci's DIY.
Infamous bitch clip
This clip was indeed a bitch to take off, however a good understanding of how it works allowed me to do it in about 5 minutes. Lowering the tranny helps give your hands clearance and a small screwdriver to jam between the "tang" will help with the job.
http://ift.tt/1N7iOpB The pelican DIY on shifter bushings also has some good advice on removing the clip.
Undoing the tranmission bolts
You will need a 2-3 foot extension, u-joints, a breaker bar, and female torx sockets for the job. Some of these were difficult to access and I ended up stripping one of the bolts. Had to replace it with a new one which set me back a day. You may want to consider buying an extra set of bolts before you start the job. You can always return them.
Separating the transmission
This was the most difficult part. It took a lot of work to get the transmission separated from the engine. Between me and a helper, it probably took 30 minutes of wiggling, pulling, and delicate prying to separate it. I cannot imagine doing this on jack stands without a transmission jack
Flywheel and Clutch install
You'll need a pilot bearing puller to replace the pilot bearing and if you buy your parts separately (no kit) make sure you get a clutch alignment tool as well. There are some tools people have come up with to hold the flywheel in place while torquing the bolts. I didn't have them and had to make due with a pry bar and an assistant. I screwed in a transmission bolt to push against with the pry bar while torquing. Remember to thoroughly clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces with brake cleaner immediately prior to installing. Gloves get greasy and you don't want any impurities on any of the surfaces. Since my aftermarket flywheel bolts didn't come with threadlocker on them, I applied blue loctite before installing. The sprung clutch disc has "gearbox side" printed on one side of it. Following the advice of others, I installed it backwards with the "gearbox side" facing the front of the car. I also compared this orientation to the stock disc and found it makes sense. Haven't had a problem.
Bell housing internals
I thoroughly cleaned off the inside of the bell housing with brake cleaner and installed the parts dry. After doing some research, this seemed the way to go since the moving parts other than the fork are plastic. A dry lubricant could also be used but didn't seem necessary. This step was also the step I felt least confident about, so when performing this job, be sure to take a good look the internals of the bell housing before you disassemble the parts. Also, after a lot of deliberation I decided to use a OEM plastic pivot pin instead of an upgraded metal one. I figure it worked fine before.
Seals
Other than the selector rod seal (as part of the shifter bushing overhaul), I didn't replace any of the seals since they weren't leaking and I read that a lot of people had leaks after replacing old seals with new ones. Not sure if that just speaks to a job poorly performed, but I decided to take my chances and deal with the leak when it occurs.
Shifter Bushings
This job was more time consuming than I expected, plan for a couple hours. The most difficult part was the shifter ball bushing (25111469397). I hear there is a tool to help get this out, I fought with it for a while using 90 degree pliers but was unsuccessful and ended up having to dremel it out. There probably is an easier way, but be forewarned. The carrier bushing was quite easily removed and a new one pressed in with a vice. There are kits out there but I don't recommend replacing every single part. The list below is what I replaced, got them individually from autohausaz. As for the difference, the shifter bushings definitely made operation a little smoother, and 5th is less sticky now.
Shift Pins
I decided against doing this job. Not sure what kind of improvement I'd see after replacing the shift pins, but it's shifting better than before and I didn't really have any issues previously, so I'm happy.
Reattaching the transmission to the Engine
This wasn't nearly as difficult as removing it however you'll still need helper. Also, it's good to have someone holding on the the bolts while you're torquing them to ensure they don't slip off. Lastly, bear in mind that two of the bolts screw into the starter. I had to hold the starter in position while my helper guided the bolts in.
Center Support Bearing
The bearing is a tight fit. You'll need a bearing puller kit (http://ift.tt/1N7iNlu) to get it off. Also, there's a good chance you'll screw up the backing plate while removing so I would plan on replacing that too. I also replaced the lock ring, seemed prudent. To get the bearing back on, I used a short piece of 1 1/4" PVC pipe and a club hammer. The rubber mallet got me no where.
Centering Sleeve
On a whim, I decided to replace this part as well. This is a decision I regret as I'm not sure it was necessary and it was a lot of work to get it out. Since the bushing has rubber on the inside and metal on the outside, my pilot bearing puller ended up just tearing up the rubber instead of pulling the whole sleeve out. After trying many different approaches, I ended up using a dremel to remove the rubber on two sides after which the bearing puller was able to do its job. I then used a press to get the new sleeve in. It's a tight fit!
E21 Transmission Mounts
Looking for a little extra performance, I went with E21 OEM transmission mounts. I looked at some aftermarket parts but ultimately decided these were cheap and met the performance-comfort balance I was looking for. To install these you'll need to increase the diameter of the holes in the cross member where the mounts bolt into since bolts of the E21 mounts are thicker. A drill press worked perfectly for this job. You'll also need to ensure you buy nuts and washers to fit. Lastly, the cross member has a couple of nubs for fitting purposes that will prevent the E21 mounts from sitting flush. You'll need to grind these flat using a dremel or some other tool. This mod was very easy.
Part List - Clutch
21212228289 - Sachs clutch kit (replaced the stock disc with E34 M5 disc)
21212226594 - E34 M5 Sprung Clutch Disc
Gripforce FX Racing Chromoly Flywheel
11211720310 - Pilot Bearing (I went with Genuine BMW)
07119906045 - Pressure plate bolts (you'll need 6)
11222243051 - OEM flywheel bolts (if you're sticking with the OEM flywheel, you'll need 8. My LWFW came with shorter bolts)
21511223328 - Pivot Pin
21517570284 - Spring clip
26127536563 - Flex Joint Lock Nuts (one-time use, you'll need 6)
18301716888 - Exhaust Gasket (one-time use, you'll need 2)
25111221849 - Locking pin for shift lever support arm bushing (aka bitch clip, there's a good chance you'll screw up your old one while taking it off)
Other parts to replace (while in there)
23711109173 - E21 transmission mounts (buy nuts and washers to fit)
26122227278 - Center support bearing
26111226553 - Backing plate for CSB
26123648156 - Lock-ring for CSB
26111226552 - Dust cover for CSB (I didn't replace mine, just cleaned off the old one)
26112226527 - Flex disc guibo
26117526611 - Centering sleeve (see my experience above)
Part List - Shifter Bushings
25111220439 - Plastic washer (you'll need 4)
25117507695 - Shifter bushing at shift level support
23411466118 - Shifter rod coupler bushing (pretty sure it's made of foam, you'll almost certainly need a new one of these)
25111469397 - Shifter ball bushing (very difficult to get off, I would reconsider replacing if the current one looks ok)
25111221700 - Rubber shift boot (I replaced mine, not sure it was necessary)
25111222015 - Rear shifter arm bushing (probably good to replace)
25117571899 - Shifter circlip (you'll need 2 of these, probably could reuse, but it's a cheap part)
23111204223 - Shift shaft seal (I replaced mine, not sure it was necessary)
Clutch DIY's
http://ift.tt/1eD4rtg
http://ift.tt/18f8k6S
http://ift.tt/18f8mLX
Torque Values
http://ift.tt/1N7iNlw
Shifter Bushing DIY
http://ift.tt/18f8mM0
Book
http://ift.tt/1N7iNlE
Part diagrams
http://ift.tt/18f8k6Z
Z3 M Coupe Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel Job - Tips, experience, part list
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